Temporary Closure Advisory

Update #1:

We will be closed from May 26 (Saturday) to June 7 (Thursday). At this time, the owner will not be able to process inquiries, orders, and late-paid orders; hence, these will be processed on reopening. You may still, however, file an order through the order form. As mentioned, this will be quoted and processed on reopening.

Customers are advised to file their orders on or before Thursday, May 24. Payments will be accepted until Friday, May 25. Ship out schedule will be on Saturday, May 26. Deadlines will be strictly followed.

Should communication be necessary during the closure (e.g. to follow up), please message the Facebook page: facebook.com/greenthumbmnl. Response time, however, will be longer than usual. Text messages and calls through our official phone number will not be entertained.

Thank you for your understanding and we hope that this has provided you sufficient information.

Diego Roxas
Owner, Green Thumb Gardening Hydroponics

Order Form: http://bit.ly/2ABU4Et
Product Catalogue: http://bit.ly/2z7cF9S

Plant Seeds: Types and Maintenance

THE SEED

A seed is a product of pollination among plants. It encloses an embryo in a hard coat which will grow and develop into a plant once germinated. In analogy, the human egg cell develops into a fetus, then a baby, while a seed germinates into a new plant.

Seeds are found in plant fruits. Examples would be the tomato that is harvested (most consider it a vegetable, but botanically it is a fruit), the corn cob (where the seeds, also known as grain, is attached), and many more. "Seedless" fruits actually have seeds, only that the plant was treated to significantly shrink the seed to the point that there is virtually no seed. Not all seeds can be sown for planting, for various reasons.

There are two types of seeds: orthodox and recalcitrant seeds. Orthodox seeds are the ones usually sold in the market in seed packs as they can be stored under dry conditions and stay viable for years. Recalcitrant seeds, on the other hand, are typically seeds of fruit trees. These cannot be stored like orthodox seeds as these will lose their viability over a short period of time once it's removed from the fruit. Sowing, then, is necessary right after removal from the fruit.

SEEDS IN THE MARKET

As mentioned, seeds sold in the market are typically orthodox seeds; hence, it can be stored and stay viable for years. Typically, seed viability is at two years, provided proper storage. There are two forms of seeds sold: open-pollinated variety (OPV), and F1 or hybrid.

Open-pollinated seeds are the ones that can be continuously planted true-to-type. Meaning, seeds produced by the fruit can be planted again for the next cropping season without significant difference from the parent. While this may give you a steady supply of seeds, do note that the genetic quality will be reduced overtime. Meaning the quality of the plant will also decrease. You will have to plant by the hundreds to maintain genetic quality.

Hybrid/F1 seeds, on the other hand, are of higher quality than open-pollinated varities. F1 varieties are products of two open-pollinated parentals, and by principle, are more superior than their parentals. The downside is that these will not produce seeds, or if they did, would not produce true-to-type offspring. In fact, the offspring would look weird or much deteriorated compared to open-pollinated ones. Which is better? It depends on your needs. Quality wise, choose hybrids. Sustainability wise, choose OPV. If you want to make a hybrid of your own, then use various OPV seeds. That, however, is another topic, and is not as easy as it sounds.

Seeds sold in the market can be grown hydroponically. Hydroponics does not require "special" seeds. Plants can adapt to the conditions they are subjected to (such as if they are grown in the soil or in water).

Greenthumb Gardening sells seeds that can be used for hydroponics. For a full list, click here.

GERMINATING YOUR SEED

There is no one-all method of germinating seeds. However, generally speaking, seed germination starts when it absorbs water. From that point on, various reactions take place inside the seed, wherein it prepares the embryo to emerge and fully develop into a new plant. Viability is the potential of your plant to germinate.This is also the % germination specified in the seed pack. This indicates the guaranteed chance that an individual seed will germinate. Actual results vary. Over time, viability decreases even with proper storage. The next thing to consider is vigor. Vigor is defined as the ability of the germinated seed to continue on to develop into a plant. To successfully produce seedlings, the seed must be viable and vigorous. The absence of one will lead to poor yield, while the absence of both will lead to no yield at all.

Specific treatments may be necessary for proper germination. Read about the plant species you are to plant for more information. 

Lettuce seeds at 85% germination rate and good vigor

HARVESTING SEEDS

Seeds from open-pollinated varieties can be harvested for replanting in the next cropping season. Simply cut open the fruit (usually in half) then scoop out the seeds. Clean off slime and other unnecessary materials using water. After which, air dry the seeds for at least a day. Do not oven dry. Store them in foil packs or paper envelopes, with proper identification (such as plant, variety, date harvested, etc.).
 

PROPER STORAGE

Whenever possible, seeds should be stored in a refrigerator (not freezer!) at temperatures below 15°C but greater than 0°C. Higher temperatures decrease viability over time. Seed packs must be kept unopened unless the seeds will be sown. This is to keep moisture levels low (as high moisture levels decrease viability). After getting your seeds, fold the opening to prevent spillage and moisture accumulation. Store in a tightly-sealed jar (like cookie jars) or container (with rubber gasket) with desiccant.

Seeds stored in a plastic jar with desiccant

Desiccant is also known as silica gel, or the sachet that is usually found in newly-bought shoes or bags. It must not be eaten, but it is non-toxic. You can buy these at hardware stores. Choose ones that have an indicator color.

Desiccant with blue indicator (dehydrated)

Desiccants can only absorb moisture at a certain extent; hence, once it is saturated with moisture, it can no longer absorb moisture. One way to find out is by using the color indicator. Some have a blue indicator that turn pink once saturated. Others are white in color, turning violet if saturated. Check with the hardware for more information. These, however, can still be reused, by evaporating the moisture in an oven or heating it in a cooking pan. Not to worry as this is non-toxic. The color will change back to its unsaturated color, indicating that it can absorb moisture once again.

Desiccant can be placed in medicine measuring cups covered by tissue

In the absence of a refrigerator, storage in a cool, dry, dark place will suffice. Examples would be kitchen cabinets or drawers. Be careful not to mix the seeds with food as some seeds may be treated with fungicide (to prevent germination diseases).


Typically, seeds can be stored with good viability for about (but not limited to) two years. There are other storage techniques that can extend viability for decades (for example, in International Rice Research Institute where they have a seed bank with large freezers, or the "Doomsday Vault" where seeds of important crops from countries around the world are stored), but that entails high cost and other treatments. Refrigerator storage will suffice.

That is all! Hopefully this article has given you a better understanding of seeds and how to take care of them.

The Setup Explained

Many may still find themselves unfamiliar with how a hydroponic setup works, or why it is set up that way. This article aims to explain the setup itself, plus the things you have to take note of, so you get to play around the specifications of your setup once you get a good understanding of it. For starters, a set of instructions is available here: Hydroponics Made Simple. The article will focus on the setup prescribed by the makers of SNAP.

THE CONTAINER

Any container will do, for as long as it is shallow and can hold large amounts of water. Usually (but not necessarily), the shape is rectangular, given that rectangular containers are widely available and that it is able to maximize space. Examples of these would be grape styrofoam boxes, wooden or plastic crates or pallets (or paleta), plastic shoe boxes, trough pots with saucer, etc. Other containers, such as pails, basins, baskets, and other similar materials, are allowed. For as long as your container can hold large volumes of water, then it fits the job.

In the case of styrofoam box, lining it with a sturdy polyethylene plastic sheet is necessary, since styrofoam is porous, and it alone cannot hold water. In our case, we also line the base with black garbage bag (aside from the plastic lining itself) in order to minimize algae growth.

Styrofoam box initially lined with black garbage bag

The plastic sheet recommended by IPB (SNAP producer) can be quite difficult to find (but if you shop at Divisoria, then you might find it), so an L or XL black garbage bag will suffice. Based on our experience, garbage bags can last for up to three months; after that, it will start to chip off and degrade. If you have the means to find the sheet, you might as well do, since it's MUCH sturdier than garbage bags.

Lined with 20x30x0.003 in clear plastic sheet

When using pails, be sure to have a porous cover so that air can circulate inside (don't copy the one in the pic where a plastic cover was used!). Alternatively, you can use an aerator just like in aquariums. Lastly, make sure that minimal light gets to the inside.

20L pail. Young tomato (back) and growing Jalapeno (front) planted

WATER

Tap water will suffice. Chlorine concentration is a concern for many, but note that chlorine is an essential element. Also, tap water that is released to the public has passed regulatory standards, meaning, chlorine concentration will have been within safe use. If this still bothers you, however, you may leave a pail of tap water outside for a day, to allow the chlorine to vaporize.

Rainwater can also be used, but only use rainwater at the middle of the rainy season and onwards, given that rainwater from the onset of the rainy season is actually acid rain, and acidic pH negatively affects plant growth.

As a general rule, if it can be watered to soil-based plants, then it is good for hydroponic usage. It's a plus (but not a requirement) that the water is potable or safe for drinking.

CUP

Any cup will do for as long as it can support your seedling and that it is deep enough to reach the water on your container. Around six slits will do. Slits can be made by using a serrated knife (for styrofoam cup) or a hot metal rod (for plastics). If using plastic, it is better to use a colored one instead of a clear one, to minimize light from entering the setup. 

 

8 oz. styrofoam cup

SUBSTRATE

Substrate serves as the support or anchorage of the young seedling. It does not, and should not, contribute to plant nutrition. Moreover, it should be inert, or simply put, must not be decaying or undergoing any biological process (i.e. matured). Ideally, the substrate should be porous to allow the plant to breathe. Any substrate will do for as long as it is not soil. Examples would be coco peat/coir/dust (they're all the same), sawdust, sand, gravel, hydroton clay, rockwool, sponge.

The amount of substrate used per cup should only be approximately 1/4 of the cup volume. Too much (say 1/2 of the cup) and the seedling would become "lazy," leading to slow growth. Too little and the seedling will have poor posture, and may possibly drown. Substrate erosion may be a concern. No need to worry as erosion is only minimal (unless you deliberately shake or disturb the water).

Coco peat used as substrate for lettuce seedling

SEEDLING

Seedlings should be sown in a soil-less medium. This medium can also serve as a substrate. Watering the seedlings with SNAP is only necessary at around 2 days after emergence. This is also to accustom the seedlings with SNAP solution.

Your seedling must be at least a week old or should have two true leaves before transplant. "True leaves" can be roughly defined as the leaves that emerge after the first two leaves of the seedling. Remember to pick the best-looking ones for best results.

Lettuce seedlings grown indoors

 SETTING UP

Now that you got all your materials, all you have to do is to set it up. Find a place that is sunny. Plants in general love the sun, so find the sunniest place at home (usually the North or South side). Also, your setup should have protection from rain. Although rain will not directly kill your hydroponic plants, it will definitely dilute your solution (requiring you to replenish it), and can drown the seedlings, leading to death. In our case, we've built a shed made with bamboo and plastic cover (bought in bookstores, but UV plastic is much sturdier and can last longer).

Hydroponic shed

Fill up your box with water up to the point wherein the level just hits the base of the cups (usually 1/2 inch). For the case of styrofoam box using 8oz. styro cups, approximately 10 liters is needed. Then add your nutrient solution. For SNAP, 1L solution requires 2.5mL A and 2.5mL B. Remember to mix one component first before adding the other. 

Water level should just hit the bases of the cups

Usually, pH adjustment is not necessary, but you may if you want. pH adjusting is usually for plants grown beyond one month.

Completed setup

From this point on, all you have to do is to wait for the plant to grow. Refilling isn't usually necessary, but if the situation calls for it (when water level has receded but root growth is poor) then you may have to refill up to a level where the roots can have contact with water. If refilling is needed one week before harvest, just add water. Nutrients are not that necessary at that stage.

White-colored roots show good aeration and health

That's all! We hope that you were able to understand how the setup works. Other related articles shall follow. For more inquiries, you may leave us a message at facebook.com/greenthumbmnl.

Greenthumb Gardening sells some of the items mentioned here, such as SNAP Hydroponics solution, coco peat and seeds. For a full list of products offered by GTG, and the order process, click here.

The Quick Guide to Growing Cherry Tomato Hydroponically

This serves as the second in a series of "Quick Guides" written by GTG's owner himself. Hopefully, this will allow you to successfully grow cherry tomatoes through hydroponics.

Hello there! In this edition of Quick Guides, we'll be discussing how to raise cherry tomatoes. Cherry tomatoes are smaller-sized tomatoes usually eaten in salads. These command a higher price versus regular-sized tomatoes. One of the first challenges in growing your cherry tomatoes is finding the seeds. In Metro Manila, seeds are fairly available in hardware stores (such as Ace Hardware) and grocery stores (such as Puregold or SM Hypermart). Sometimes, seeds from consumed cherry tomatoes can be used for planting, except if the said cherry tomato is a hybrid. How can we know? We can't, so it's a 50-50 chance.

If you wish to take seeds from the fruit itself, be sure to wash off the fluids or slime from the fruit and give it a day's worth of drying. No need to put it out of the sun; just let the water evaporate. Do enclose them in a container if rodents are present in the area - they eat tomato seeds.

Got your seeds? Great! Let's get started.

THE GIST
Scientific name: Solanum lycopersicum (Lycopersicum esculentum is its old scientific name; no longer used)
Varieties tested: no specific variety (cherry is a tomato variety in itself, although subvarieties may exist)
Approximate Growth Timeline: [Sowing to emergence: 4 days][Pre-growing: 14 days][Growing at setup: approx. 30-45 days][Flowering and fruit development: continuous until death] = total approx. 80 days (first harvest, continuous until plant death)
Sunlight: Full, at least 6 hours; 4 hours bare minimum

HOW TO
1. Cherry tomato seeds are manageable despite its small size. Sow seeds 1.45 times greater than required. For instance, if you want 4 plants, sow 6 seeds. This is because seeds generally have an 80% germination rate, plus an allowance for sickly seedlings. Rule of thumb is to sow more than needed (but not too many).
2. Prepare your germination tray. Add a layer of coco coir (around 20mm) then poke shallow holes, one for each seed. Once all seeds have been sown, slightly bury them by leveling the bed. Water with water only, no need to water with SNAP solution at this stage. Place this in a shaded area, however, indoors is alright. Expect germination within 7 days, the earliest around 4 days.
3. Once the seeds have germinated, expose them to the sun, preferably greater than 2 hours. Depriving them of sunlight will result to thin and spindly seedlings.
4. Once the first true leaves appear (the leaves that grow after the very first), start watering them with SNAP solution. They should stay in the tray for around two weeks before transplanting.
5. Once the pre-growing stage is done, select the best seedlings based on leaf count, stem strength, physical appearance, etc. Carefully lift the coir around them to safely uproot them and transfer to cups, one on each. If roots are tangled, carefully pull the seedlings apart. A few broken roots would be fine.
6. Mind the gap. For a styrofoam box that fits eight lettuce, add only two seedlings. They can't be too crowded, otherwise, they might not grow well.
7. Prepare to provide them support such as stakes. They will grow to a point that they cannot support themselves.
8. At around three to four weeks they will eventually start flowering. Once flowers bloom, gently tap each to pollinate them, to ensure fruit set (where the flower turns into a fruit).
9. At this stage, the setup may have to be refilled. In doing so, use a half-strength solution (12.5mL A&B per 10L water). Make sure, however, that you leave at least an inch of gap between the cup's base and the water level. Refill as necessary.
10. Tomatoes are ready to harvest when its skin starts to redden. You may leave it to ripen to full red before harvest - it is said to have fuller taste.
11. Continue maintaining your cherry tomato plants as they grow. Note that at one point, its leaves will start to dry up, then eventually the plants die entirely, regardless of gardening practices. For continuous supply, plant new seeds at the onset of flowering.

EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN
1. These set of instructions can also apply to other varieties of tomatoes (be it the ordinary or plum type).
2. Suckers (side stems) will grow in the process. Various gardening sites recommend that suckers be removed for better growth but based on experience, suckers yield fruit as well, hence, I don't cut them out. The main stem grows with or without suckers anyway.
3. Expect leaf miners. You can't do anything about it. Just leave them alone, but be sure to do a little control by removing infected leaves when you see that much of the leaves are affected.
4. Remove dried leaves so the nutrients are directed to the growing ones.
5. Many factors are in play when the flower fails to set, such as high temperatures, poor environment, poor nutrition, etc. You can try to increase the concentration of SNAP solution to remedy this. Nonetheless, failure to set happens sometimes, and is a normal occurrence.
6. Blossom end rot happens when the lower tip of the fruit starts to brown and shrivel. This is due to a lack of calcium (Ca), which may be because it is deficient or that the pH does not favor calcium absorption. Recommended pH for tomato is around 6.0 to 6.5.

That's it for now! I hope this helps. If you still have questions, though, feel free to message me so I can entertain you and so that I can better improve this.

The Quick Guide to Growing Lettuce Hydroponically

This is the first of a series of "Quick Guide" reading materials for crops that have been grown by the owner of GTG through SNAP Hydroponics.

Hello there! For this series of quick guides, each one will have three parts, namely, The Gist, How To, and Everything In Between. Hopefully this is informative enough to ensure success in your hydroponic endeavors. Take note, however, that GTG is not paid to mention or promote a specific brand. You are free to select your own items or inputs.

Lettuce is the recommended crop for starters due to its ease of production. Moreover, it has a relatively quick cycle, compared to larger plants such as tomatoes and peppers. While a cold climate favors its growth, varieties have been developed to allow it to thrive under hot conditions, such as those mentioned below.

THE GIST
Scientific name: Lactuca sativa
Varieties Tested: Lollo Rossa, Green Eton (both from Ramgo), Emperor (Condor Seeds)
Size: Small
Approximate Growth Timeline: [Sowing to emergence: 4 days][Pre-growing: 6 days][Growing at setup: 30-35 days] = total approx. 40 days (Lollo Rossa and Green Eton)
Sunlight: Full, at least 4 hours

HOW TO
1. Get a pinch of seeds. Sow them according to the instructions provided in setting up SNAP Hydroponics. You do not need to bury the seeds; you just have to sprinkle them on top of the coir and water them. Don't allow the setup to dry up; otherwise, it will affect germination rate. Germination time should take around four days.
2. Once the seeds have germinated, water them using dilute SNAP solution (2.5mL A&B per 1L water) until the first true leaves appear. True leaves are the leaves that grow after the first two leaves emerge. This will take around six days from the date of emergence.
3. Around the 10th day from date of sowing, your seedlings are ready to transfer. Pick the best ones in terms of growth and transplant them, one seedling per cup. For one styrofoam box, eight seedlings can be accommodated.
4. Harvest the seedlings at 30 to 35 days after transplant, regardless of its size. You may harvest it earlier but NEVER later, otherwise, you will end up eating bitter lettuce. Bitterness is a result of age, not that it intakes solution.

EVERYTHING IN BETWEEN
1. Most of the time, the setup does not need to be refilled with solution, but in summer times, evaporation rates may be higher. If you see that your lettuce hasn't developed much roots but water has already receded below the base of the cup, all you have to do is just refill it with water. No need to add fresh solution to it. Likewise, if harvest time is near but the setup is about to dry up, just refill it with water only.
2. If you planted iceberg varieties (like Emperor) under hot conditions, don't expect it to form a head. Its leaves will remain loose, and chances are, the leaves will taste bitter. A safe way to ensure good harvest is to follow the schedule of leaf lettuce, such as in Lollo Rossa and Green Eton.
3. It's normal for lettuce to look wilted when the sun is at its peak intensity. They will look fresh once more when the intensity recedes. You should be concerned, however, if they do not seem to recover even at night. If that is the case, then you must troubleshoot it immediately (For now, you may contact us through our Facebook page or mobile number should you have inquiries regarding this matter).
4. Insect pests aren't usually attracted to lettuce, but one must monitor moth larvae (locally known as higad) since they attack lettuce crops. Their population usually increases at the onset of rainy season. Be careful not to touch them by hand since their hair can cause excessive irritation. You may use pesticide, but be sure to pick the right one, and to follow the instructions provided. The label will indicate to which pests is it effective plus the proper way of handling it. You may also contact us for proper guidance.
5. Leaf miners may attack the crops. You can say that they have when you see discolored lines on the lettuce's leaves. They won't kill the plant but it can affect the plants' growth rate if infestation is severe. There is no way to control them by means of pesticide, so the best way to control is to simply pluck out the infested leaves. It is recommended, however, to just leave them alone.

Information provided in this guide are based on the author's experience and on the seminar on SNAP Hydroponics conducted by the Institute of Plant Breeding, UP Los Banos. If you have comments or suggestions, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Hydroponics Made Simple!

    This is a set of instructions in setting up your own hydroponic setup. Tips and additional information are available below. You are encouraged to read the instructions fully before performing the tasks. If you wish for a more comprehensive set of instructions, you may refer to the manual provided by the manufacturer or you may consult with GTG through the contact details below.

    In setting up your hydroponic setup, you will need the following: seeds of your crop of choice, plastic container, styrofoam cups, grape Styrofoam box, coco coir, black garbage bag, packaging tape, barbecue sticks and SNAP hydroponics solution. 

PART 1: GERMINATING YOUR SEEDS
1.    Prepare the coconut coir by immersing it in water. Squeeze out excess water.
2.    Prepare your plastic container. This may be a used food or butter container, keeping in mind that this will be used to germinate your seeds. Punch holes on the base if you are not confident with your watering. Add at least an inch of coir.
3.    Sow the seeds to the container according to the seed packet’s instructions. It is not necessary to follow the spacing recommendations at this stage. Top the seeds with some coir.
4.    Prepare a solution of 2.5mL SNAP A + 2.5mL SNAP B per liter of water. Use this to water your seeds.
5.    Wait for the seeds to germinate. This will take days depending on the crop.

PART 2: PREPARING YOUR SETUP
1.    Get your Styrofoam box and cups. Using the lip of the cups, trace eight circles at the cover of the box, such that they are equally spaced apart.
2.    Make holes on the cover using the traced circles as your guide. Make sure that you don’t make the holes too big as the cover will be used to hold the cups. If you accidentally make holes too big for the cup, you may try to cutout Styrofoam cups to narrow the holes.
3.    Now get the base of the box and your garbage bag. Line the base with the garbage bag, making sure that the bag is lined flat on the corners of the base. After which, use the packaging tape to secure the bag in place.
4.    Fill the box with water. Check for leaks. If there are leaks, you are recommended to either replace the lining or double line the lining of the box.
5.    Transfer the water to a pail. You may use this for any purpose.
6.    Now get your Styrofoam cups. Make six to eight slits that are around ¼ inch wide and extends from the base to half the height of the cup.

PART 3: TRANSPLANTING
1.    Get your cups with slits. Add a half-inch worth of coco coir, slightly compressing the coir.
2.    Once your seeds have germinated, gently uproot them by using a barbecue stick.
3.    Transfer one seedling to the cup with coir. Bury the roots, making sure that the leaves are left above.
4.    Add these to your Styrofoam box. Place your box to its final location (since it will be hard to transfer once water has been added). Make sure the location has ample amount of sunlight (at least 4 hours) and has protection from rain.
5.    Add water until the level just reaches the base of the cups. A good indication would be if the coir is saturated by water.
6.    Add 2.5mL SNAP A and 2.5mL SNAP B per liter of water added on the setup. Add them one at a time, NOT simultaneously. For grape boxes, water added is usually 10 liters, so 25mL SNAP A and B are added.
7.    Inspect the setup. Make sure that the water level is sufficient, the plant/s is/are not submerged, and that there are no leaks.
8.    You may now leave the setup alone at this point. Check it up once a week, troubleshooting any possible issue.
9.    Harvest your crops at the recommended day of harvest, or if physical looks indicate that it is ready for harvest.

TIPS AND REMINDERS
1.    Materials need not be strictly followed. Alternatives that can serve the same purpose may be used.
2.    Likewise, measurements (except the SNAP proportions) need not be strictly followed. They only serve as guides and approximates.
3.    Black garbage bag is recommended to avoid algae growth.
4.    Coco coir is not recommended for re-use. You may use them for composting or for soil growing after use.
5.    Likewise, used solution is not recommended for re-use after harvest. You may use it for watering instead.
6.    Although rain will not directly kill the plants, it will fill up the setup with water, diluting the solution and eventually drowning the plants. In the event that this happens, drain the water to an acceptable level.
7.    You may customize your setup based on materials available and to your preference for as long as the requirements for setting up a hydroponic setup are met.

A printable document can be downloaded here (SOON!)

A Primer On Doing Hydroponics in the Philippines

If you have limited space for gardening or want to be less dirty with gardening then hydroponics might be right for you. Hydroponics is basically a way of raising plants by only using water instead of soil. In short, the water provides for the plant's nutrient requirements. Some prefer this over the traditional soil-based method since this is more efficient (plant grows faster) than the latter and that this prevents any soil-borne disease. 

In most cases, preparing and conditioning the soil to outdo hydroponics is more meticulous and time-consuming. Not everyone has the luxury of time to do so. With hydroponics, one does not need to go through such tedious process. Most nutrient solutions are as good as “ready for use” when prepared.

Do take note that not all plants can be grown hydroponically. For example, I tried to grow a dwarf variety of sunflower (Helianthus annuus) using hydroponics, since I was unsuccessful in growing it using soil. While it yielded a larger plant, it proved to be an unsustainable practice since the nutrients had to be replenished more often, and that not being able to will immediately lead to nutrient deficiency. It was also able to grow a flower, but its head was much smaller than what is sold by garden shops, grown in soil. As a general rule, hydroponics works best with vegetables, not ornamentals.

Moreover, this is NOT organic gardening (although some organic gardening methods can still be employed in the process). I've read gardening forums wherein attempts were made at making hydroponics organic (by using extracts from organic sources to replace chemical solutions) and it proved to be disadvantageous. Lastly, there is a difference between hydroponics and aquaponics. Aquaponics is the combination of hydroponics and aquaculture (raising of aquatic animals). Nutrients are obtained from animal excrement (in short, poop). Aquaponics, therefore, can be considered organic.

In the Philippines, hydroponic resources are not so accessible to the public. But some locally-established physical and online shops do offer products for hydroponics. 

If you're the no-frills type like me, you can still do hydroponics. A low-cost option locally available is SNAP Hydroponics, a nutrient solution developed by researchers at the Institute of Plant Breeding, UP Los Baños. It is an alternative hydroponic method that requires no electricity and makes use of recyclables. 

I am selling the solution for only P350. You may refer to this for further details in ordering your SNAP Hydroponics Solution. I ship nationwide through Xend. 

For more information, you may visit Greenthumb Gardening's Facebook page at facebook.com/greenthumbmnl, call me at 09062084851 (Globe), or send me an email at jdiegoroxas@gmail.com